Self-Drive Safari Botswana

Botswana Self-Drive Itineraries

We took a 45-day road trip from South Africa around Botswana, and below are three selected itineraries altered from that route for a great self-drive safari experience. We planned our route using the Tracks4Africa Botswana Map* and booked all our campsites through Botswana Footprints. For more information about the specific parks we visited click on the links, read an overview of Botswana National Parks or for more about camping spots and how to book, read our post on Camping in Botswana.

Maun to Kasane Self-Drive Route

Distance	600 – 1200 km
Days	5 – 12 Days
Start/End	Maun/Kasane
Best Time	May – November
Vibe	Rivers & Elephants

The sandy route from Maun through Moremi, Khwai, Savuti and Chobe Riverfront to Kasane is the most classic self-drive itinerary in Botswana.

A suggested self-drive itinerary is shown in the table below, modified from our route. We drove 976 km and used 114 litres of diesel between the last fuel station in Maun and the next fuel station in Kasane. In Maun we filled to our capacity of 165 litres (75-litre fuel tank, 2×20 litre and 2×25 litre jerry cans). If you rent a fully-equipped 4×4 from Britz* your vehicle will normally come with a long-range fuel tank (giving you roughly 105 litres) and you can rent jerry cans for an extra fee. You can also rent vehicles one way from Maun to Kasane and add on extras like a satellite phone.

The most direct route between Maun and Kasane is 395 km but this involves no detours to campsites and no game drives. You’ll want to spend at least five days along this route and preferably more, to stay at least one night within Moremi, Khwai, Savuti and Chobe Riverfront and be able to go on game drives within each park.

Road conditions on the Maun to Kasane Route

The tracks in Moremi can become flooded and impassable in the rainy season, from December to March. Sometimes the bridges are damaged – these lead to Third Bridge Campsite – and this campsite can be cut off. The bridge called Third Bridge is on the direct route between Third Bridge Campsite and Xakanaxa Lagoon area. This bridge in particular is sometimes broken so to drive between the two areas you must go via South Gate. The direct route from Xakanaxa to Khwai North Gate can also often be flooded or very muddy in rainy season, so again you may have to travel via South Gate. If you are scared of water crossings, stay in Xakanaxa rather than Third Bridge.

In Khwai the tracks near the river may be wet, muddy or overgrown. The drivable routes change every year so you’ll just have to see as you go. The tracks to the campsite are always fine.

The way through Savuti is very sandy – we found it much sandier than anywhere in the southern deserts. The worst bit of sand in Botswana is along the cutline north of Savuti on the way to where the tar starts in Kachikau village. It’s bad here because not only is the road very sandy, but it’s undulating too so you have to power uphill through the thick sand. With a decent car you’ll be fine. With a car lacking in power and pulling a trailer you may find yourself stuck. Luckily the route is not too remote and another vehicle should be along to help you.

In Chobe Riverfront the tracks are all ok and if they’re not you can always turn around. The routes by the river are completely flooded in the rainy season but the tracks higher up on the riverbanks are always fine and it’s never a problem to reach the campsite.

Suggested Itinerary for Maun to Kasane Route

Day	Where	Tar/km	Sand/km	Campsite	Cost1
0	Maun
1	Moremi	50	120	Third Bridge	550
2	Moremi	0	100	Third Bridge	550
3	Khwai	0	140	Magotho*	350
4	Khwai	0	30	Magotho*	350
5	Savuti	0	165	Savuti	560
6	Savuti	0	70	Savuti	560
7	Kavimba	20	100	Mwandi View*	200
8	Chobe Rivefront	30	90	Ihaha	270
9	Kasane	5	50	Chobe Safari Lodge*	110

Approximate costs for this itinerary for two people with one vehicle work out at about $860/1230 for SADC/international excluding vehicle hire, food and small extras. The three main costs are $390/680 for campsites, $320/400 for park fees and roughly $150 for fuel.

To make this itinerary shorter you could miss out a night in Moremi and/or Khwai and drive straight from Savuti to Chobe. If you have extra time, spend an extra night or two in Moremi, add on two nights in Linyanti and spend an extra night in Chobe Riverfront.

Maun

Stock up everything you need for a week or two in the wilderness here in Maun. Take at least 150 litres of diesel and more if you plan on spending much over one week on this self-drive route. Make sure your vehicle is in good condition – check fluids and listen for any odd sounds when driving (bad sounds are often the first sign that something is wrong). You also need enough drinking water. We carried almost 100 litres of water, though the ablution facilities do have water which you can boil to drink if needed. If you have a spare day in Maun, take a mokoro tour on the delta* – these often include a guided walking safari on a remote island – a good way to exercise before a lot of driving. It’s easiest to ask about tours and book in the lodge you’re staying at.

Once you’re ready, it’s time to set off on a safari to remember.

Moremi

It’s almost 100 km from Maun to Moremi South Gate with the last 50 km on good tracks. The drive might take about two hours, depending on how many animals you see as you approach the Game Reserve. There are four campsites with the park – Third Bridge, Xakanaxa, Khwai North Gate and South Gate. Third Bridge and Xakanaxa are at the far end of Moremi Tongue, next to the delta, while Khwai North Gate borders the Khwai River and South Gate is next to the South Gate and the least wild campsite in the park.

I’d recommend spending at least two nights in Moremi, ideally at either Third Bridge or Xakanaxa Campsites on the tip of Moremi tongue (these campsites do fill up so book far in advance). In the rainy season Third Bridge may be inaccessible, in which case you can find a site at another campsite within the park or in Khwai Community Concession instead. If you are scared of water crossings, stay in Xakanaxa rather than Third Bridge.

Khwai North Gate campsite is also a fine choice within the park, near the Khwai River with many animals, though it feels slightly less remote than the other two. If you have more time, stay at Third Bridge and Xakanaxa and Khwai to experience the different parts of the park.

Khwai Community Concession

Khwai Community Concession is an area protected and managed by the local community. It’s between Moremi and Savuti and has at least as much wildlife as within the official parks so it’s worth spending at least two nights in Khwai Community. The Magotho campsite has a lovely position by the river and you could sit here for days watching the comings and goings on, in and through the water. Elephants in particular wander through the campsite. Khwai Safari Grounds and Mbudi Campsite are great alternative campsites to Magotho.

Savuti & Linyanti

Savuti and Linyanti are two areas of Chobe National Park (Chobe Riverfront is the other, most visited one). There are only three campsites in Chobe National Park – one in each area i.e. Savuti Campsite in Savuti, Linyanti Campsite in Linyanti and Ihaha Campsite in Chobe Riverfront. Due to the low number of campsites, you should book far in advance to guarantee a spot.

It’s about 75 km from Khwai north to Savuti Campsite. Outside of the dry season you have to drive the Sand Ridge Road, rather than the Marsh Road which gets very wet. The Sand Ridge road is very sandy and the going slow, so allow four or five hours from Khwai to Savuti Campsite. It’s a further 40 km of slow sandy driving to Linyanti Marsh and the campsite there. In the wet season the direct route NW from Savuti to Linyanti is often too muddy to drive. Instead, you have to take the long way around, 70 km via Ghoha North Gate and then along the cutline to Linyanti Gate.

It’s worth spending at least two nights in Savuti since you’ve come so far to get here. If visiting Linyanti as well, spend two nights at each campsite to make the most of your time in the wilderness.

Chobe Riverfront

It’s 130 km (45 km on tar and 85 km on sandy tracks) from Savuti Campsite to Ihaha campsite, the only campsite in Chobe Riverfront. We stayed at Mwandi View Campsite* in between for several reasons: so we could have a morning game drive in Savuti before setting off, to avoid driving too far in one day, to allow for delays and getting stuck on the sandy roads, and to have a short break from the wilderness. Another good option near Mwandi View is Muchenje Campsite & Cottages*.

Camping at Ihaha Campsite is a great option as the sites overlook the river and you avoid having to deal with the Chobe Decongestion Strategy. This rule means that in busy times, self-drivers cannot enter the park before 9 am or after 2:30 pm unless you’re staying at the campsite. We camped at Ihaha for one night and felt we saw most of the park, but staying for two or three nights would allow more animal sightings.

Kasane

Kasane is just next to Chobe and could be used as a base to explore the park if Ihaha is fully booked. Kasane has fuel and many shops, the first place since Maun, so you can restock on everything here. We stayed in the campsite at Chobe Safari Lodge* and also organised a river cruise with them, an experience you shouldn’t miss. You can check online to get an idea of river cruises available*, but it’s easy and probably cheaper to book directly at a lodge.

If you want to return to Maun, it’s 600 km on the tar via Nata. Nice places to stop overnight on the way include Elephant Sands*, Nata Lodge* or Planet Baobab*.

Central Kalahari and the Salt Pans Self-Drive Route

The wild route from Maun through Central Kalahari Game Reserve, across the Salt Pans to Kubu Island, through Makgadikgadi Pans and Nxai Pan National Parks includes a mix of landscapes, wide open spaces, amazing light and stars on a diverse self-drive safari through Botswana.

As above, this route starts in Maun where you should prepare everything to be self-sufficient for the next week or two. Get diesel in Maun (the fuel station in Sehithwa is less reliable) and fill up on water and food. None of the campsites in Central Kalahari have water, so bring all the water you need plus more. We carried almost 100 litres of water and never came close to running out, but the extra is needed in case you get stuck. After the Central Kalahari, you can refuel in Rakops and restock on food and fuel in Letlhakane. Nata also has both food and fuel while Gweta doesn’t have much of either.

On this self-drive route, the longest section between fuel is from Maun to Rakops, where you might drive 700 to 1000 km, mainly through sand. Our car (Defender 110 TD5) averaged about 8 km per litre through sand. Assuming your car is similar you should carry at least 100 litres if you’re not driving too far in the reserve, and up to 150 km if you plan to drive a lot. Your fuel efficiency will be a lot lower if you’re pulling a trailer.

Road conditions on the Central Kalahari and the Salt Pans Route

The tracks through the Central Kalahari can be very muddy in the wet season with the black sticky type of mud that really glues you down. This occurs on the main loop where you drive through pans and former river channels, especially near Deception Valley itself. On the tracks through the sand dunes away from this loop, the roads are just sandy all year round.

The Botswanan Salt Pans fill with water in the rainy season, lasting between December and March/April. Never drive on the pans when they are wet as the mud will suck you in and you might never get free. Entire cars have been lost here. Even if the pans look dry, unless you see recent tire tracks then get out and walk on them to check, but remember that your car is a lot heavier than you.

When the water is very high you won’t be able to reach Kubu Island. If this is the case you’ll have to drive around the edge of the pans instead of across via the Island. Baines Baobabs in Nxai Pans may also be out of reach, though the campsite at South Camp should always be accessible. Similarly, most of the roads within Makgadikgadi remain just sandy rather than muddy and wet.

Suggested Itinerary for Central Kalahari and the Salt Pans Route

Approximate costs for this itinerary for two people with one vehicle work out at about $820/950 for SADC/international excluding vehicle hire, food and small extras. The three main costs are $290/360 for campsites, $230/290 for park fees and roughly $300 for fuel.

To make the itinerary shorter you could miss out Kubu Island (though this is a really unique place). If you have more time, spend an extra night in each of Makgadikgadi and Nxai National Parks and add on more time in the Central Kalahari.

Central Kalahari

From Maun it’s 170 km drive southwest on the A3 to the vet fence and checkpoint. Note you can’t bring meat or eggs south through this checkpoint. The turn-off to Central Kalahari is just south of the fence along a sandy track due east. After 40 km you’ll reach the entrance to the park. It’s another 32 km east along the park boundary before the track south through the dunes to Motopi campsite (15 km) and the central loop of the park (55 km). Since it’s already 170 km on tar (almost 2 hours) and 90 km through sand (maybe four hours) to Motopi campsite it’s worth staying here rather than trying to push on. The waterhole at Motopi is nice and it’s a pleasant, extremely remote area.

From Motopi campsite it’s 40 km to the main loop. You then have a choice of whether to drive anticlockwise or clockwise. The entire loop is 230 km, which would be a fairly quick two day’s drive. There’s also a cutline heading directly east-west through the centre of the loop. You won’t see many animals here but it’s a quick way from one side of the loop to the other.

One of the most popular areas, with both self-drivers and animals, is the area of Deception Valley on the eastern side of the loop. It’s much busier with people than elsewhere, but it’s worth spending a couple of nights here for the chance of seeing cheetahs, lions and wild dogs. Apart from the campsites around the loop, Pipers Pan is a great excursion into a remoter area of the Kalahari. While in the park read Cry of the Kalahari*, a book about the brown hyenas and lions of Deception Valley.

CKGR to Kubu Island

Leave the park to the east via Matswere gate and to Rakops. From the Deception Valley area it’s about 80 km so a few hours’ drive. Either stop off at Rakops River Lodge* or if you left the park early you can continue directly to Kubu Island. It’s 170 km on the tar and 50 km on fairly decent sand tracks to Kubu from Rakops, so should take 3.5-5 hours. There’s fuel in Rakops but no supermarkets – there are both in Letlhakane just south of the turnoff to Kubu.

From the south to Kubu Island the tracks are sandy but good and the route is quite clear. The campsite has a good website and they can inform you about the road condition before you set off. Make sure to arrive in time to explore a little before sunset. You can walk up the nearby hills and over the rocks, have a braai and watch the sky change colour. Unless you want a longer break there’s no need to spend more than one night at Kubu as there’s not much to do nearby and there aren’t any animals (apart from horses and donkeys).

Kubu Island to Makgadikgadi

Heading north from Kubu the tracks can be a bit obscured and overgrown and sometimes multiple tracks branch off and you don’t know which one to take. The Tracks4Africa Botswana* map is useful, as is a phone app such as Maps.Me. Keep heading north, and avoid the track furthest east on the edge of the pan as this can be wet and muddy and you might run into trouble here. The parallel route slightly west and away from the pan is slightly sandy but no problem.

After 100 km you’ll reach the main tarred road across the top of the Salt Pans. This is the only bad tarred road in Botswana – in places almost washed away entirely – drive slowly to avoid the potholes. If you need fuel or food, or want to visit Nata Bird Sanctuary, head 20 km right to Nata. Otherwise, turn left towards Gweta. There’s not much in Gweta itself (the fuel here is very unreliable) but Planet Baobab* is a cool place to camp among large baobab trees. About 10 km west of Gweta is a signed track leading off to the eastern entrance to Makgadikgadi Pans.

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

This National Park can be divided into two areas: the large expanse of the eastern section with few tracks, lots of pans and sand, and the Boteti River section on the western edge of the park. Makgadikgadi Pans is famous for the zebra migration, as the animals move from the pans where they live in the wet season to the permanent Boteti River where they find water in the dry season. It’s not just zebra who do this but also the other game. This means that in dry season, most of the animals can be found by the River, while in the wet season there’s much more game in the east of the park.

Tree Island campsite is a remote spot in the eastern section of the park with three sites, all with a long-drop toilet and bucket shower. Khumaga is the other campsite in the park, next to the Boteti River. It’s a much bigger campsite and there are shared ablutions with flush toilets and hot showers.

By the river there are several tracks nearby and you can drive up and down the banks looking for game, including many antelope and hippos. Once you’ve explored Makgadikgadi, Nxai Pans is not far away. Head north from the river to the main road and 10 km east along it.

Nxai Pan National Park

The entrance gate to Nxai is on the northern side of the main road. The route into the main area of the park is quite sandy and you may see elephants along the way. The clarity of the light is very special in Nxai, especially in the golden hours – just after sunrise and just before sunset.

Similarly to Makgadikgadi, there are two campsites, each with a different vibe. South Camp is on the southern edge of the main pans area of the park and has the most wildlife nearby. There are many campsites fairly close together and shared ablutions. In contrast, Baines Baobabs campsite has three sites spread out from each other, each with a drop toilet and bucket shower, in a remote section of the park by some huge baobabs. These campsites may be inaccessible in the wet season.

From the entrance gate to Nxai Pans it’s then 140 km back to Maun.

Kalahari Desert Exploration Self-Drive Route

Distance	3000 – 4000 km
Days	12 – 20 Days
Start/End	Maun or Gaborone
Best Time	March – May
Vibe	Wilderness & Gemsbok

This self-drive safari route explores some of the last places on earth to remain true wilderness, the three big desert parks of southern Botswana – Mabuasehube, Khutse and the Central Kalahari. With fantastic predator sightings, huge herds of antelope and a feeling of utter remoteness, you’ll want to head back as soon as you leave.

Road conditions on the Kalahari Desert Exploration

The tracks in Mabuasehube and Khutse are mostly just sandy and don’t get too wet or muddy even in the rainy season. In Central Kalahari there are areas, especially near Deception Valley on the eastern edge of the main loops, where tracks can become quite muddy and wet. Some routes also tend to be slightly overgrown. Unless you’re confident you can self-recover from getting stuck in the mud or you’re travelling in a convoy, it’s best to think twice about the Central Kalahari in January or February. If you’re a confident self-driver however, it’s a great time of year to be in the region with the game flocking to the ancient riverbeds and pans, and young antelope attracting the predators.

The long, sandy route from Khutse to the north of CKGR is very remote and not frequently driven. If you go this way, take enough water and food to last an extra few days in case you break down. It’s 300 km from the centre of Khutse to Pipers Pan in the north, and it’s sandy undulating dunes all the way with few animals. If you want to avoid this section, you can drive the long way around (about 900 km, mainly on tar). To take this route, go back out the way you came in and around via Ghanzi. You can then follow a similar itinerary in the CKGR to that in the route above.

Suggested Itinerary for the Kalahari Desert Exploration Route

Day	Where	Tar/km	Sand/km	Campsite	Cost1
0	Gaborone
1	Mabuasehube	325	160	Mabuasehube	385
2	Mabuasehube	0	80	Mabuasehube	385
3	Mabuasehube	0	85	Bosobogolo	30
4	Kang	145	125	Kalahari Rest Lodge*	140
5	Khutse	300	130	Maharushele Pan	350
6	Khutse	0	95	Moreswe	350
7	Khutse	0	90	Khutse Pan	350
8	CKGR	0	250/210	Xade/Xaxa	145
9	CKGR	0	70/135	Piper Pan	350
10	CKGR	0	170	Kori	30
11	CKGR	0	75	Sunday Pan	350
12	CKGR	0	100	Passarge Valley	350
13	Rakops	15	150	Rakops River Lodge*	130
14	Khama Rhino	320	25	Khama Rhino	120
15	Gaborone	15	335

Approximate costs for this itinerary for two people with one vehicle work out at about $1070/1300 for SADC/international excluding vehicle hire, food and small extras. The three main costs are $370/530 for campsites, $300/370 for park fees and roughly $400 for fuel. To reduce the price, stay at the DWNP campsites in Mabuasehube and CKGR.

To shorten the itinerary you could spend one less night in all the parks, miss out on Mabuasehube entirely and skip the Khama Rhino Sanctuary. If you have more time, spend an extra night in all the parks, or add on more than one extra in Central Kalahari.

Mabuasehube

From Gaborone, or South Africa, first head to Kanye. At the Mongala Mall in the centre of town you can fill up on fuel, visit the Superspar, and get a SIM card for Botswana if needed (we got a Mascom SIM and it worked well). From Kanye it’s 165 km to Sekoma, the last place for fuel before the park.

From Sekoma head 80 km down the A20 and there’s a large road sign pointing down the cutline to Mabuasehube. You have to open and close a gate to get on the track. It’s then straight for a while before the track wiggles around to the north, then cuts south back to a larger cutline. Then it’s west all the way to the boundary track of Mabua. Head south along this track – it’s probably the sandiest part of the drive, and soon you’ll reach the entrance gate.

Inside the Park

Inside the park there are several camping spots – all fairly private and spread out from each other, most with their own A-frame, long-drop toilet and bucket shower. The most popular spots are around Mabuasehube Pan itself and Mpayathutlwa Pan but many of the other sites are also nice. The worst spots are at the Entrance Gate since you don’t get a sense of wilderness.

After exploring the park you must return to the same entrance gate. Head north along the boundary then left at the corner before the tracks turns north again towards Hukuntsi. The track is a mix of sand which is a bit slow and newer gravel sections where you can travel fast – but these are intermittent. There’s fuel in Hukuntsi and then it’s 110 km east to Kang.

In Kang there’s both fuel and a Choppies supermarket. We stayed at the campsite at Kalahari Rest Lodge, which has a pool and delicious steak, 25 km north up the road from Kang. There aren’t (m)any other camping opportunities in this area. The other option is to drive all the way from Mabua to Khutse (630 km, about 200 km of which is sand) but it would be a very long day.

Khutse

From Kang head to Letlhakeng, the end of the tar and the last place to get fuel before heading north into the desert. If you’re heading right through to CKGR, you will probably travel at least 1000 km before the next fuel, mainly on sandy tracks. With an average fuel consumption of 8 km/litre, you’ll need 125 litres. You may well travel more like 1300 km, in which case at least 160 litres of fuel would be needed. If you’re pulling a trailer, your fuel efficiency will be a lot worse. Remember also to take enough water for the time you plan to spend plus a few days extra in case of problems. Assume that there’s no water within the park (there may be some at Xade Gate halfway up but it’s definitely not reliable).

From Letlhakeng the tracks are good gravel until just before the border of Khutse Park, and within the park they are mainly sandy. After camping a few nights here, head north to continue into the desert if taking the direct route. There are campsites along the route at Bape, Xaxa (12 km off the main track but by a waterhole) and Xade Gate. After a stopover, continue through the sand to Pipers Pan and beyond onto the main loop of the Central Kalahari.

If you don’t fancy the 300 km of sandy undulating sand dunes, leave Khutse the way you came and return to Kang. Continue north to Ghanzi (we stayed one night in Tautona Lodge* here). On this route, Ghanzi is the last place for fuel, food and water before you enter the park.

Central Kalahari

Wherever you enter the park, spend a couple of nights in the Deception Valley area on the eastern side of the loop, and a few nights elsewhere. While in the park read Cry of the Kalahari*, a book about the brown hyenas and lions of Deception Valley. Pipers Pan is a great spot to spend a night or two, while Passarge Valley is also beautiful and worth driving to see the large herds of antelope.

You could spend weeks here, but eventually you must leave. Head east to exit the park and continue to Rakops. There’s fuel here but no supermarket. Camp overnight at Rakops River Lodge*, or if you left the park early you can continue to Khama Rhino Sanctuary. On the way stop at Letlhakane for both supermarkets and fuel.

Khama Rhino Sanctuary is a small reserve that contains many rhinos. The campsite is pleasant and you could pass a day or two here. From the Sanctuary it’s 335 km back to Gaborone or 600 km to Johannesburg.

Tips for Staying Safe while Self-Driving in Botswana

• Never drive in the dark – animals may jump onto the road
• Always check your surrounding for wild animals before leaving your vehicle
• Accompany young children at all times and don’t let them sleep in their own tent
• Never take citrus fruit or apples into wilderness areas – elephants love these and do anything to get at them
• Be careful when lifting up your rooftop tent cover if you keep it on the ground overnight – scorpions or snakes could be sheltering beneath it
• Don’t walk in the dark to the ablutions – drive or hold it in
• Never run away from a big cat – stand your ground, wave your arms and shout at it